Fragrance Files

Billie Eilish’s 2nd Fragrance Launch term “fragrance” or “parfum” on a cosmetic ingredients list refers to a mixture of dozens of different chemicals. Even fragrances labeled as “natural”, “organic” or “unscented” may contain perfume ingredients (although some do contain a masking agent to hide the smell of the chemicals used).

There is an infinite number of scent combinations, but most people will gravitate toward certain families when searching for a fragrance that suits them. This is why it’s important to know the four major fragrance families and their subfamilies before shopping for perfume.

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Each fragrance note category contributes to the overall scent experience. Perfume makers carefully select each ingredient to achieve a fragrance that smells pleasant and evokes the desired emotion. The notes are arranged in a perfume accord, which is the structure that gives the perfume its character and longevity.

Top notes are the initial burst of scent that is released when the perfume is applied to the skin. Heart or middle notes then develop over time. Base notes are the longest-lasting and most memorable.

The most common perfume ingredients are natural but many are also synthesized, such as calone, which imparts a fresh ozonous metallic marine smell. Synthetic aromatics can be better than natural extracts for some scent concepts. For example, synthetic linalool provides a superior approximation of the scent of a freshly picked rose than plain linseed oil. They are also more readily available and less expensive than natural terpenes, which are typically derived from the volatile rinds of citrus fruits and flowers.

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